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gewinde i mulde?


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trebam info u vezi gewinda.....

uglavnom na aveo pasu gewinde od golfa mk2/mk3,samo sto aveo ima na zadnjem kraju oprugu posebno i amort. posebno a gevinda ide na mjesto amortizera.planiram stavit na zadnje mulde onu stangu.mene sad zanima dali ce biti kakvih posljedica zbog naprezanja na muldama.:thumbsup:

 

28jid5e.jpg

2lv0q6u.jpg

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Ja ti na kocki imam sve zajedno iako je predvidjeno da bude posebno opruga posebno amortizer. Puno vise pate mulde al zato das nekom da ti slozi stangu muldi al ne onu ko naprijed nego nesto kao sto ja imam. Pogledaj topic o mom autu pa ces vidit kako mislis.

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Zadnje ako ima mijesta za feder mozes stavit samo trebas pojacat mulde jer su jako tanke tako da bi ih moglo izbit (a ako hoces zadnje gevinde da su odvojeni federi pasu ti od fabije) ,a prednje od golfa 2 ili 3 trebas prosirit donji dio koji ide na glavcinu oko 3 mm i zavarit nosace za sponu:thumbsup:

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Zadnje ako ima mijesta za feder mozes stavit samo trebas pojacat mulde jer su jako tanke tako da bi ih moglo izbit (a ako hoces zadnje gevinde da su odvojeni federi pasu ti od fabije) ,a prednje od golfa 2 ili 3 trebas prosirit donji dio koji ide na glavcinu oko 3 mm i zavarit nosace za sponu:thumbsup:

 

Kakve spone i glavčina? On ima iza most i amortizer se šarafi na most. Kako znaš koja je debljina zadnjih muldi i konstrukcija istih na Aveu?

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jel vece naprezanje u hvatistu amortizera ili opruge kad su odvojeni ?

 

kad to odgovorite sve znate

 

2 bubi , sam stavljaj kak ti je ZOD rekao, s tim da opruge moraju biti adekvatne karakteristike koje osim ovjesene i neovjesene mase ovise i o svoj polozaju u odnosu na smjer sile

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jel vece naprezanje u hvatistu amortizera ili opruge kad su odvojeni ?

 

Pa opruge.. :huh:

 

2 bubi , sam stavljaj kak ti je ZOD rekao, s tim da opruge moraju biti adekvatne karakteristike koje osim ovjesene i neovjesene mase ovise i o svoj polozaju u odnosu na smjer sile

 

Vec mirišem sebi sranje..

Šta ako se ovo izvede sa amortizerom i oprugom skupa + na to amortizer i opruga dobiju u uzdužnoj osi auta puno kuta, skoro 30 stupnjeva, naravno doljne hvatište prema kotaču, gornje prema autu.

Kruti most i RWD kola su u pitanju.

 

Kakvu promjenu ponašanja stražnjeg kraja bi taj puno veći kut amortizera i opruge imao nego što je serijski bilo?

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evo da bude jasnije ja bi ovo :lol::lol:

This is the how to for installing mk2/mk3 VW (1985-1999 Jetta, Golf, Corrado) onto your Aveo.

 

 

Step 1: Put car on jack stands and remove wheels (whole car, front or back doesn't matter)

 

 

For the rear:

 

1. Put a jack under the axle to support it, not enough to raise the car but to keep the axle from falling.

 

2. Remove the 14mm bolt at the bottom of each shock on the end of the swing arm.

 

rearlowerbolt.jpg

 

3. Remove the two 14mm bolts from the top of the shock (this is the upper shock mount).

 

rearmountbolts.jpg

 

4. Pull shocks out of wheel well. (ziptie gas plumbing cover tighter, yellow zipties in finished pictures)

 

5. Lower beam, it should drop enough that the springs will pull out, if not you will need to loosen the brake line bracket so the axle can drop further.

 

6. Remove stock springs.

 

7, Remove the upper mount from the shock. you will need an impact to make this easier, but turning it by hand is possible as well.

 

8. Put upper mount in same order on top of coil over. USE the nuts that come with the coil overs!!

(this is also the time to eliminate the smaller helper spring if you want more clearance)

 

rearuppermount.jpg

 

9. Turn the spring perch collars to the same position and turn them towards each other to jamb them in place.

 

10. Install the coil over into the upper mount on both sides.

 

11. Raise rear axle so the bottom of both coil overs go into the shock holder cups. And reinstall the 14mm bolts.

 

12. Put tires on, and check selected height. Adjust the collars until desired height is achieved. (this will be covered later).

 

 

 

For the Front:

 

This section requires a kit for the sway bar to be retained. Also some grinding of the upper spindle.

 

1. Since you have it up and the wheels off already. Remove the two bolts and nuts joining the strut to the spindle. And also remove the nut holding the sway bar endlink to the tab on the strut. It will spin, but on the side of the rubber boot is a stamping for a 15mm wrench to hold it in place.

 

stockfront.jpg

 

2. Using an impact, remove the top 19mm nut (in the engine compartment). Hold the strut while you do this as they will drop out.

 

3. Remove the strut from the wheel well.

 

4. Using an impact, remove the nut that holds the upper mount together.

 

5. Assemble mount onto coil over in the same order as removed (eliminate the sleeve the coil over comes with). Preset the collars to a desired height (keep in mind my slammed picture has about 2" of threads at the bottom), and jamb them together.

 

comparisonu.jpg

 

6. This is where you need to modify the spindle: Attempt to install the coil over onto the spindle. you will see it is too wide. When you look at the spindle you will see the casting is wider where the oem bolts go through. However the top of the spindle is narrower than those two plateaus. Using a grinder (4" angle grinder was my choice) grind the 4 plateaus until they are almost even with the rest of the spindle, test fit the coil over often so you just take off enough so that it fits.

 

TIP: to keep everything cut a hole through a garbage bag and cover the rest of the spindle / brakes etc.

 

TIP: You need to be very careful grinding near the brake line, be aware of where it is the whole time you grind. you do not

want to nick it. Removing the caliper from the spindle and placing it out of the way, if you want to be extra careful is

a good idea ( just like if you were doing brakes, do not remove the line).

 

ground2.jpg

 

 

ground.jpg

 

 

7. Once the coil over slides onto the spindle, Install the upper nut to hold it in place.

 

8. (This is where the kit comes in) Using the longer bolts, matching nuts and two lock washers supplied in the kit, install the lower coilover. The bolt should go in from the front of the car, and nuts should face the back of the car (this is important for installing the sway bar end link bracket (not yet pictured, but will be added at the bottom).

 

coiloverbolts.jpg

 

9. As you tighten the bolts and nuts, preset your camber Pull the top of the spindle out as you tighten the bolts if you less camber, push it in if you want more. (you will want to check this when again after you lower the car. it is the "tilt" of the wheel.

 

10. Puts tires on and lower car. Adjust height and camber as necessary.

 

11. I recommend getting an alignment once you have your "permanent" height decided.

 

 

Installing Sway bar endlink kit.

 

1. The two bolts on the lower spindle attachment of the coil over. You will notice extra threads pointing toward the rear of the car on both sides. Slide the bracket onto those bolts as pictured. install the lock washers and nuts, and tighten.

 

2.Remove the old sway bar endlink from the sway bar, Again It will spin, but on the side of the rubber boot is a stamping for a 15mm wrench to hold it in place. (The other side was removed with the strut).

 

3. Set the length of the bar to reflect the height change. (Longer if closer to stock height, shorter the lower you go) This is kind of a guess, but in any position it will not interfere with anything. However it is important to match the length on both sides. Use the jamb nuts to lock its position.

 

4. Install the adjustable end links in the order of the pictures (ALL HARDWARE PROVIDED) to the sway bar and the bracket.

 

 

YOU ARE FINISHED!

 

 

(more pictures will be posted soon).

 

finished install pictures:

 

photobzl.jpg

driversrear.jpg

reardone2.jpg

reardone.jpg

slammedpas.jpg

frontlow.jpg

frontlow.jpg

cigarettel.jpg

 

 

I will answer questions and edit, add to the thread as i answer them.. End link Kit pictures available when the "production" kit is available.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer: do at your own risk, off road use only, i can't say this will pass inspection (for your state), etc.

Since i am not doing the install i can not guarantee your work. I will give you all the help i can, and it has been driven on my car over 200 miles so far. it works, but thats as far as my liability goes. Your coil overs if bought direct come with a warranty, since they are not modified you will be able retain that suspensions warranty.. The end link kit is all that i am providing you with. It will not fail. It is at least twice the strength of stock. But part failure will be fixed if it occurs.

 

 

Thank you.

 

 

 

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meshin afaik neki amortizeri ne rade dobro ak im je preveliki kut...

sad 30° je vec dosta..

 

iz tog razloga je hall svojevremeno na s7 koristio od soke neke ulozak cini mi se, da taj podrzava motazu pod kutem (pushord) ili kak vec ..rod..

 

afaik velim...

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meshin afaik neki amortizeri ne rade dobro ak im je preveliki kut...

sad 30° je vec dosta..

 

afaik velim...

 

Hmm da.

Sada sam PS skillz iskoristio i provjerio kut amortizera, te vidim da sa pretjerao u procjeni kuta. Između 10 i 15 stupnjeva je okvirno. Nebi smio biti nikako više od 15 st.

 

Baš me zanima kako to da Lada Niva ima straga preko 30 stupnjeva amortizere.

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Hmm da.

Sada sam PS skillz iskoristio i provjerio kut amortizera, te vidim da sa pretjerao u procjeni kuta. Između 10 i 15 stupnjeva je okvirno. Nebi smio biti nikako više od 15 st.

 

Baš me zanima kako to da Lada Niva ima straga preko 30 stupnjeva amortizere.

 

Onaj moj stari escort je imao pod 45st. stražnje amortizere na krutoj osovini :D

I rade bez problema....

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Pa opruge.. :huh:

 

 

 

Vec mirišem sebi sranje..

Šta ako se ovo izvede sa amortizerom i oprugom skupa + na to amortizer i opruga dobiju u uzdužnoj osi auta puno kuta, skoro 30 stupnjeva, naravno doljne hvatište prema kotaču, gornje prema autu.

Kruti most i RWD kola su u pitanju.

 

Kakvu promjenu ponašanja stražnjeg kraja bi taj puno veći kut amortizera i opruge imao nego što je serijski bilo?

 

sto sranje, vis da je na ovom engine tuning forumu ovjes strana rijec :lol::)

 

amortizer i torzionka odredjuje brzinu rolla/pitcha ili bumpa/rebounda kotaca pa je tu naprezanje najvece

 

mana samih cilindricnih opruga i je da nije sila ista po obodu , sto je izrazenije kod opruga vecih promjera, zato F1 vozi na torzijonku

 

micanjem polozaja amortizer-opruga pomices i vrijednost sile na istu, koja zavisi od gibanja auta

 

ako ih nakosis u lateralnom smjeru imas tvrdji bump i pich,meksi roll,vecu prirodnu frekvenciju auta, ako iz zamices u longitudinalnom i roll tvrdji, do jedne granice, jer ti karakteristika opruge pocinje biti banana, ona je predvidjena za silu u smjeru svoje cilindricne osi a ne sa strane kao i amortizer, pogotovo ako ti je to ujedno i gornja tocka hvatista ovjesa

 

2 ZOD dakako da postoji previse spusten tuniran auto bez promjena hvatista ovjesa na auto, geometrija moze otici u bananu a s druge strane spusteni auto je najbrzi po ravnom pa je tu opet kompromis

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