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Battery relocation ?


Kevin

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imas vani za kupiti(UK) plasticne kutije za akumulatore, bas za ovakvo premjestanje koje ti radis

 

ja sam imao to slozeno na bivsem autu, izbacio rezervnu gumu i stavio akumulator unutra, kabel je bio ako se dobro sjecam 50mm2 ili 75mm2, sve radilo odlicno 4 godine dok nisam auto prodao, a koliko znam i sadasnji vlasnik ima aku i dalje u gepeku, ipak se dobije dosta mjesta pod haubom

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  • 1 month later...

evo jedan C/P sa MLR foruma :thumbsup:

 

 

This is my brief guide for fitting a battery relocation kit to an Evo 8.

 

The parts for the installation were supplied from:-

 

Battery tray, positive cable, connection box - Neverneverman http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=291775

2ft negative battery strap - local auto supplier

Mega fuse and holders - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-376-85-mega-fuse-holder-for-the-mega-range-of-fuses-1412-p.asp

Battery terminal covers - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/t123-pair-of-battery-terminal-covers-black-negative-and-red-positive-6050-p.asp

 

Tools required:-

13mm, 12mm, 9mm deep sockets

Racket with extension bar

Cable cutters

2mm drill bit and power drill

9mm drill bit

Pliers

 

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Find a suitable location for the battery tray. I chose just in front of the AYC fluid bottle, butted up to the wheel arch. Carefully drill 4 small holes (2mm) into the boot floor, being careful not to let the drill bit go through the metal with force.

Remove the battery tray, and clean the metal around one of the holes with sandpaper for the negative terminal battery connection. If the battery tray is painted, also scratch some paint off on the top and bottom around the corresponding hole.

Pass the securing strap under the tray, ensuring the catch is the correct way around, and then secure the battery tray down with the earth cable.

 

dscf0144.jpg

 

The cable can then be routed in to the engine bay. I removed the trim down the left of the car, and hid it next to the existing looms, secured with cable ties. The cable is then fed in to the engine bay through the large grommet in the middle of the passenger’s footwell. I then ran it across the bulkhead, and down the side of the brake lines to the connection location.

 

In the engine bay, first remove the battery tray. There are 2 bolts on the left side of the tray (closest to engine), and 2 nuts on the left at an angle. You will also need to remove the small bolt at the back left of the tray, connected to the gold coloured bracket holding the pipes and looms in place. The tray can then carefully be removed, by lifting it left, towards the engine. I also removed the gold bracket, as it got in the way of the cables in their new position/

 

Next, undo the bolt securing the battery neutral cable and a few other small negative cables. Cut off the part of the thick cable from the bolt to the battery, leaving just the part going down to the engine. Now look at the other small cables you removed. Due to the length of the securing bolt, these had to be relocated. I drilled the ring terminals out to 9mm (held the connectors with pliers, and carefully drilled), and secured them to one of the bolts formerly for the battery tray (after sanding the connection clean of course, and with an m8 washer on the top).

The connection box can now be fitted to the negative bolt along with the engine earth cable. I terminated the battery cable into the left side of the box, and fitted the L bracket to the right side with a couple of extra m8 washers (make sure this bracket is all insulated, except for a couple of millimetres around the holes). Ensure everything is nice and tight, and then close the lid on the connection box. Now the fuse box can be attached to this using the M8 bolt supplied with the kit. I used an extra washer on the top to ensure a good connection. This was easiest using a 13mm spanner on the bolt underneath, and a 13mm deep socket at the top.

 

dscf0128z.jpg

 

dscf0126x.jpg

 

For safety reasons, I cut the original posative terminal cover, so that it fitted the new position, protecting the top nut from any potential short circuits

dscf0143ke.jpg

 

The battery can then be connected up in the boot. Neverneverman’s kit assumes you will use the part of the battery strap you removed in the engine bay for the negative connection. In my case this was not long enough, so I used some thicker 4AWG cable, with a ring terminal at 1 end. On the positive feed, I fitted a 250amp MEGA fuse and holder for safety, and put these on a piece of MDF for added isolation. (shown in first picture).

 

dscf0146h.jpg

 

Finally, I trimmed the boot carpet to fit around the new equipment.

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