Kevin

evo nesto slicno/isto (CPL) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkD8ja1SPSQ bez ulja i otvorenim karterom jest da je stariji auto je princip je isti

da, ovo je preventive radi. 2 ND4SPD; stavi si to, nece ti skodit ja sam to metnuo i u kangooa jos prosle godine i super zadovoljan. puno tise radi u leru a na bregastoj se stvorio kao neki stakleni sjajni sloj. Te mirko keramicke cestice sluze sprecavanju (smanjenju) habanja i ne mjesa se s uljem vec se taj sloj talozi po stjenkama cilindra, lezajevima i ostalim pokretnim elementima. Nekako sumnjam da bi njemacki TUV bezveze to odobrio i certificirao... u ostalom bumo vidli kad otvorim motor... jednog dana :naughty:

a izgleda da cu morat. samo neznam koji je promjer rupe (PCD) a razmak je afaik 4x100

BUMP! ljudovi dajte iskopajte negdje bilokakve 12" gume, trebaju mi 2 komada, samo da nije starija od 1979 god proso sad par vulkanizera i ugodno ih nasmijao :lol:

jbte, nisam znao da ima vagu, kaj neveli... koliko dodje vaganje?

Trebao bi kupiti/naci 2 gume dimenzija 5.20 R12 za prikolicu od broda, idem odfurat brod na servis sljedeci tjedan a ove gume su iz 1979 i jos drze zrak u sebi. Proslo ljeto kad sam micao prikolicu simo-tamo pocela se guma raspadat. bijem da nece izdrzat 1km do servisera... Stari mi veli da je to dimenzija kao od fićeka... jel istina? samo mi gume trebaju bez felgi jer su to tamo sve namontirat. radi se o ovom brodu tj. gumama;

patafta u zg

fala srećo :clap:

samo da te podsjetim za 2L Motul 300V 15W 50 Competition i 1 ceratec aditiv za ulje sutra posljepodne se nadjemo negdje :thumbsup:

odlicni za podaci, vijerujem da takvi vrijede i za Evo 4G63 motor :thumbsup:

ja svoje felge pjeskario i plastificirao za 25€/kom u dugom selu. (18")

moze, kad ti ja dopeljam mjesalicu na pranje i velim daj je ispoliraj i navoskaj :lol:

koji auto? kangoo, evo, T5, X6? u kangooa sam stavio i super zadovoljan

e ovo jos nisam vidio: Ceramic Power Liquid - YouTube nakon tocenja CPL-a, auto vozi bez poklopca ventila, bez ulja i bez kartera :notworthy:

ok, tenx :thumbsup:

lega, ovaj accu je novi novcati, kupio sam ga pred kraj sezone tako da netreba novi opet kupovat pa makar bio 200kn. nema veze. bum ka probao naputni klemama pa skut pokrenut pa nek se nastavi punit moze thread closed

accu od skutera nema cepove, zatvoreni je tip

zanima me posto se blizi sezona skuterisanja, trebao bi napuniti accu koji je 12v od skutera, mogu li ga putni klemama koje su spojene na auto koji radi na cca cuku vremena?

trebao bi Motul 300V 5W 40 (Power), koliko me dodje sa popustom 4L?

evo jedan C/P sa MLR foruma :thumbsup: This is my brief guide for fitting a battery relocation kit to an Evo 8. The parts for the installation were supplied from:- Battery tray, positive cable, connection box - Neverneverman http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=291775 2ft negative battery strap - local auto supplier Mega fuse and holders - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-376-85-mega-fuse-holder-for-the-mega-range-of-fuses-1412-p.asp Battery terminal covers - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/t123-pair-of-battery-terminal-covers-black-negative-and-red-positive-6050-p.asp Tools required:- 13mm, 12mm, 9mm deep sockets Racket with extension bar Cable cutters 2mm drill bit and power drill 9mm drill bit Pliers -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Find a suitable location for the battery tray. I chose just in front of the AYC fluid bottle, butted up to the wheel arch. Carefully drill 4 small holes (2mm) into the boot floor, being careful not to let the drill bit go through the metal with force. Remove the battery tray, and clean the metal around one of the holes with sandpaper for the negative terminal battery connection. If the battery tray is painted, also scratch some paint off on the top and bottom around the corresponding hole. Pass the securing strap under the tray, ensuring the catch is the correct way around, and then secure the battery tray down with the earth cable. The cable can then be routed in to the engine bay. I removed the trim down the left of the car, and hid it next to the existing looms, secured with cable ties. The cable is then fed in to the engine bay through the large grommet in the middle of the passenger’s footwell. I then ran it across the bulkhead, and down the side of the brake lines to the connection location. In the engine bay, first remove the battery tray. There are 2 bolts on the left side of the tray (closest to engine), and 2 nuts on the left at an angle. You will also need to remove the small bolt at the back left of the tray, connected to the gold coloured bracket holding the pipes and looms in place. The tray can then carefully be removed, by lifting it left, towards the engine. I also removed the gold bracket, as it got in the way of the cables in their new position/ Next, undo the bolt securing the battery neutral cable and a few other small negative cables. Cut off the part of the thick cable from the bolt to the battery, leaving just the part going down to the engine. Now look at the other small cables you removed. Due to the length of the securing bolt, these had to be relocated. I drilled the ring terminals out to 9mm (held the connectors with pliers, and carefully drilled), and secured them to one of the bolts formerly for the battery tray (after sanding the connection clean of course, and with an m8 washer on the top). The connection box can now be fitted to the negative bolt along with the engine earth cable. I terminated the battery cable into the left side of the box, and fitted the L bracket to the right side with a couple of extra m8 washers (make sure this bracket is all insulated, except for a couple of millimetres around the holes). Ensure everything is nice and tight, and then close the lid on the connection box. Now the fuse box can be attached to this using the M8 bolt supplied with the kit. I used an extra washer on the top to ensure a good connection. This was easiest using a 13mm spanner on the bolt underneath, and a 13mm deep socket at the top. For safety reasons, I cut the original posative terminal cover, so that it fitted the new position, protecting the top nut from any potential short circuits The battery can then be connected up in the boot. Neverneverman’s kit assumes you will use the part of the battery strap you removed in the engine bay for the negative connection. In my case this was not long enough, so I used some thicker 4AWG cable, with a ring terminal at 1 end. On the positive feed, I fitted a 250amp MEGA fuse and holder for safety, and put these on a piece of MDF for added isolation. (shown in first picture). Finally, I trimmed the boot carpet to fit around the new equipment.

kad ce bit popust za Seibon proizvoooodeeee??

kaj neradi semprem forde?

daj bar crnim sprejom ofarbaj taj karton... :no2:

nisam znao da si črnjo riker...