Jump to content

Kevin

Full members
  • Posts

    5.980
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Everything posted by Kevin

  1. zanima me posto se blizi sezona skuterisanja, trebao bi napuniti accu koji je 12v od skutera, mogu li ga putni klemama koje su spojene na auto koji radi na cca cuku vremena?
  2. trebao bi Motul 300V 5W 40 (Power), koliko me dodje sa popustom 4L?
  3. evo jedan C/P sa MLR foruma :thumbsup: This is my brief guide for fitting a battery relocation kit to an Evo 8. The parts for the installation were supplied from:- Battery tray, positive cable, connection box - Neverneverman http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=291775 2ft negative battery strap - local auto supplier Mega fuse and holders - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-376-85-mega-fuse-holder-for-the-mega-range-of-fuses-1412-p.asp Battery terminal covers - http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/t123-pair-of-battery-terminal-covers-black-negative-and-red-positive-6050-p.asp Tools required:- 13mm, 12mm, 9mm deep sockets Racket with extension bar Cable cutters 2mm drill bit and power drill 9mm drill bit Pliers -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Find a suitable location for the battery tray. I chose just in front of the AYC fluid bottle, butted up to the wheel arch. Carefully drill 4 small holes (2mm) into the boot floor, being careful not to let the drill bit go through the metal with force. Remove the battery tray, and clean the metal around one of the holes with sandpaper for the negative terminal battery connection. If the battery tray is painted, also scratch some paint off on the top and bottom around the corresponding hole. Pass the securing strap under the tray, ensuring the catch is the correct way around, and then secure the battery tray down with the earth cable. The cable can then be routed in to the engine bay. I removed the trim down the left of the car, and hid it next to the existing looms, secured with cable ties. The cable is then fed in to the engine bay through the large grommet in the middle of the passenger’s footwell. I then ran it across the bulkhead, and down the side of the brake lines to the connection location. In the engine bay, first remove the battery tray. There are 2 bolts on the left side of the tray (closest to engine), and 2 nuts on the left at an angle. You will also need to remove the small bolt at the back left of the tray, connected to the gold coloured bracket holding the pipes and looms in place. The tray can then carefully be removed, by lifting it left, towards the engine. I also removed the gold bracket, as it got in the way of the cables in their new position/ Next, undo the bolt securing the battery neutral cable and a few other small negative cables. Cut off the part of the thick cable from the bolt to the battery, leaving just the part going down to the engine. Now look at the other small cables you removed. Due to the length of the securing bolt, these had to be relocated. I drilled the ring terminals out to 9mm (held the connectors with pliers, and carefully drilled), and secured them to one of the bolts formerly for the battery tray (after sanding the connection clean of course, and with an m8 washer on the top). The connection box can now be fitted to the negative bolt along with the engine earth cable. I terminated the battery cable into the left side of the box, and fitted the L bracket to the right side with a couple of extra m8 washers (make sure this bracket is all insulated, except for a couple of millimetres around the holes). Ensure everything is nice and tight, and then close the lid on the connection box. Now the fuse box can be attached to this using the M8 bolt supplied with the kit. I used an extra washer on the top to ensure a good connection. This was easiest using a 13mm spanner on the bolt underneath, and a 13mm deep socket at the top. For safety reasons, I cut the original posative terminal cover, so that it fitted the new position, protecting the top nut from any potential short circuits The battery can then be connected up in the boot. Neverneverman’s kit assumes you will use the part of the battery strap you removed in the engine bay for the negative connection. In my case this was not long enough, so I used some thicker 4AWG cable, with a ring terminal at 1 end. On the positive feed, I fitted a 250amp MEGA fuse and holder for safety, and put these on a piece of MDF for added isolation. (shown in first picture). Finally, I trimmed the boot carpet to fit around the new equipment.
  4. kad ce bit popust za Seibon proizvoooodeeee??
  5. kaj neradi semprem forde?
  6. daj bar crnim sprejom ofarbaj taj karton... :no2:
  7. nisam znao da si črnjo riker...
  8. ESP? ko to jos koristi?
  9. jelda :rofl:
  10. 2 kutija; i ja sam mislio tu sliku postat al sam cekao sveznadara Mr_G da vidim do kud ce ic... Eto G, vidis da se moze i da sve funkcionira kako treba a ti teoretiziras, filozofiras bez granica...
  11. daj G stvarno kakas uzduz i popreko... cut the crap i nefilozofiraj oko banalno jednostavnih stvari...
  12. raspodjela tezine recimo
  13. hvala na informacijama i dezinformacijama sto se tezine akumulatora tice. bogami nema 20kg osim toga G, kako sam NADODAO 20kg ako ih samo premjestim? a druga stvar, nemam hrgu u gepeku ako nemam rezervni kotac pa umjesto istog stavim accu. osim toga accu nesmeta vecoj turbini napred. barem je tako kod neme raspored.
  14. Gdje ima ovog kod nas za kupit da se npr. akumulator preseli u gepek/bunker? TPautosport?
  15. zato npr. kad se opruge rade isto ih se tretira s tim kuglicama da ih se ojaca.
  16. patafta znakovi
  17. pa zato im se to i desava :lol:
  18. vijerojatno je po savu puklo, nekako sumnjam da u taivanu koriste bezsavne cijeve za ovakvo sto...
  19. btw, koliko vidim po boji, ovo je vijerojatno tein u pitanju i po monoj procijeni stjenka navoja nije nije deblja od 2mm- predpostavljam da nas dezurni strojar Dominik zna bolje procijenit na temelju slike
  20. evo sto mene zabrinjava kod gewindi kad sm vec kod MLR-a i evolutionm.net-a; ja neznam koji quracc ti vozaci rade s micekima al ovo nebi smjelo pucat sam tak...
  21. ovi Ohlins gewinde dodju 2850 GBP i za Evo 7,8,9 su. jest da su zivi sex al brijem da MENI nece takvo sto trebat :no2: previse mogucnosti nastelavanja ovog, onog, visine, dubine, tvrdoce, mekoce bla bla...
  22. ok, tenx
  23. vladek mu username na forumu? nek me PM-ne inace moram priznat da za proflex nisam cuo :huh:
  24. 2fast, imas PM charger, razmisljam i o BC racing ali prvo me zanima cijena Bilsteina B12
  25. Imali nekod tu da radi u Autohrvatska? naime, zvao ih danas glede Bilstein ovijesa B8 ili B12 za Evo 8 a odgovor je bio da nemaju u ponudi uopce za Evolutione?! A znam da su nedavno imali na prodaju PSS9 za 14.000kn. pa ako neko moze provijerit nek mi se javi na PM
×
×
  • Create New...