dcrnic

Evo kako proizvodac blokova preporucava... http://www.cosworth-europe.co.uk/techinfo/nissan-vq35/KK3879_20000067_short_block.pdf Stranica 3... Engine Break-in During the break-in process, we recommend you keep the engine speed below 4000 rpm. If break-in is to be conducted on the street, then drive the vehicle at various loads, speeds, and throttle positions while keeping engine speeds below 4000 rpm for approximately 1000 miles or 1660 kilometers. The longer the engine is broken in, the better your results. If breaking your engine in on an engine dynamometer, follow the break in procedure detailed below. You can use the guideline for a chassis dynamometer as well, but load readings will differ. If using a chassis dynamometer make sure to keep water temperatures below 95 degrees Celsius and oil temperatures below 110 degrees Celsius. • Run at 2000rpm @ 50-60 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes • Run at 3500rpm @ 90-100 lbf-ft. load for 20 minutes • Run at 4250rpm @ 100-110 lbf-ft. load for 10 minutes • Run at 4250rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes • Run at 5500rpm @ 125-135 lbf-ft. load for 5 minutes • Run at 5700 rpm @ WOT for 2 minutes During the final break-in stage, the boost should be limited so as not to exceed 350 bhp. Some initial ECU calibration activity may be required to complete break-in with proper air fuel ratios. After the starting and idling calibrations have been finalized and the break-in is complete, WOT calibration can be conducted. The engine should be calibrated to achieve an air fuel ratio rich enough for the type of fuel you are using. Consult with a professional tuner if you are unsure of what air fuel ratio you should be running. Boost should be regulated so as not to exceed 450bhp or 400 ft-lb of torque. Once ECU calibration is complete up to 7000rpm, your short block should be ready for a WOT, full power run throughout the entire power band.

320 na kotacima ili na motoru?

Odi u settings... I iskljuci joystick force feedback... I bit ce ok... nema vibracija... :lol:

:lol:

Vas dvojica dobivate besplatno tuniranje? :lol: Ne bude nikad kraj price... Jer netko ne zna citati sa razumijevanjem... Cak su mu poceli i njegovi frendovi probali objasniti, pa ne ide... Ne znam o kojoj ti Evropi pricas, ali svugdje u svijetu i Europi, tko god se bavi ozbiljnim tuningom daje snagu na kotacima... Jedino proizvodaci daju snagu motora, jer mjere snagu na motorima... motor nije instaliaran u auto na stolu je spojen direktno na dyno... Snaga na motoru je porez na budale... imas je, a u biti nemas ju... Bitna je snaga koja je na podlozi ona iskoristiva... Evo jedan banalan primjer, mozda ovi sa manjim IQ-om skuze, ako ne mozda nadem vremena da im nacrtam... Bulicici imaju motor u calibri c20let ... recimo da je serijski 204ks... na stolu taj motor ce dati 204ks... Stavi ga u serijsku calibru dat ce xxx ks na kotacima ... e sada taj isti motor su oni stavili uzduzno spojili drugu getribu i drugi pogon... sada taj isti motor od 204 ks , ce imati totalno drugu konjazu na kotacima ONO STO SE ISKORISTI... Zasto, zato jer sada ima vise ili manje konja na kotacima, jer su se svi parametni promjenili... koja je sada snaga onome tko vozi utrke bitnija... ona na kotacima ili ona na motoru... E sada tko hoce shvatiti ili nece... To stvarno vise nije moj problem... Kako kazu pametniji popusta i zato je ovo moj zadnji post tu...

*ebote pisemo ti 300 puta to sto ti ne shvacas... to samo govori o tebi... kuzio bi jos da neki tutlek koji nije u tuning pise takve gluposti, ali netko tko je "tjuner" nije smijesno, nego je zalosno... ali evo pokusat cu ponovno... Kada se stol radi imaju sve dijelove i mogu izracunati gubitke... sto znaci tvoja prica da su gubitci u samom stolu je tocna, ali je vec uracunata... Jer je sve istestirano isprogramirano uracunato... I uvijek se ponavljaju isti gubitci... Unutar mjernog stroja i komponenata koji koriste izvor energije od stroja... Zasto to ne mogu napraviti da izracunaju gubitke od valjka do motora... Zato jer se mjere milijune razlicith kombinacija, tako da uzimaju najblize postotke, procjenu da dodu to koliko toliko "tocnog" podatka... PROCJENJENE snage na motoru... I opet se ponavljam Logika ti malo jaca... zato sto netko ima aute na valjcima govori sto? Covjek pise gluposti... Da ih Hic pise ili bilo tko drugi ovakve gluposti... napisao bi mu isto... To sto telci vjeruju u muhine teorije... To nije moj problem... Rasprava je o mjerenju ne o tome tko je bolji tuner Ne treba meni nikakva mapa... ovaj stock auto ide brze od svih muhinih konja... :lol: Otisao sam, ali barem me hrvatska gramatika i dalje sluzi... Za razliku od vas hrvatina...

daj molim te prestani lupati samo se sramotis... i pisas po svemu sto si napravio do sada... EDIT: Samo da se razumijemo smatrao sam te pametnim sve do neki dan kada sam poceo citati ove nebuloze... :doh:

Sad si razmisljam kako bi bilo dobro proizvesti mjerne uredaje za kurac sa uvecanim brojevima, tako da ovi sa malim kurcima si umisljaju da imaju velike i tako se tjese... :lol: Patent pending ...

vjerojatno onaj sa Krka sto je imao prvi auto bi moto u hr swift gti... i poslije onaj lotus...

nakon svih obuka koje sam prosao u zadnjih 5 godina ... poceo sam razmisljati kao inzinjer, ne kao netko tko za dorucak "jede" gemist... :lol: To je zato jer uvijek netko dostelava i podesava poslije majstora... nije majstor kriv...

zanimljivo je kako tvoj mozak funkcionira Fire... Znaci ovako od kompjutera dyna do radilice ima toliko komponenti, "gubitaka" na svakoj od njih... da bi se dobili rezultati... Manje ih ima od kotaca do kompjutera dyna... i to je tebi veci problem, nego kada ih imas vise... od kompjutera dyna do radilice... I znaci u tom slucaju tebi nisu onda problem ovi prvi gubitci... samo su problem ako nema ovih drugih... Dali je bolje mjeriti sa manje mogucih gubitaka ili sa vise mogucih gubitaka? Nakon ovakve logicnosti i prosipanja bisera, ja se divim svakome ko ce ti dati auto u ruke...

Ja ne mogu vjerovati da si jos otvorio topic da se pokopas o svom neznanju... bolje suti pokri se usima i sakri se negdje, nego jos vise davati materijala koji te samo pokopava... Ako ne znas Engleski, neka ti netko prevede na tvoj broken hrvatski.... Why Don’t We Like To Quote Flywheel Power? The most common question we get asked is: “What’s the power at the flywheel?” And the only answer an honest chassis dyno operator can give you is: “We don’t know” There, we have said it. But Other Places Tell Us! -> Evo ovo si ti.... Indeed they do – and we will give you a flywheel power graph too. However, they are mere guesstimates and the problem is, some guess high to inflate your ego, some guess a little low and some aren’t too bad at all. But NONE of them are 100% guaranteed accurate because a chassis dyno can ONLY measure the power at the tyres... nowhere else. If you want to measure the flywheel power accurately, you need to take the engine out and measure its power on an engine dyno – it’s as simple as that. Why Is that? The way a chassis dyno works is that it measures the tractive effort at the wheels against a known resistance and then when plotted against RPM and a set of correction factors (See other signs), it outputs a pretty damn accurate torque and power graph. However, this graph does of course only tell us the power at the point of measurement... The tyres. What then happens is an extra “percentage” is normally added to the graph to represent the amount of power the dyno maker assumes a transmission system will absorb. Now I have seen these as low as 10%, but as high as 35%. This means a known good 200bhp at the wheels vehicle will have an estimated flywheel power of anywhere between 220bhp and 270bhp if it has a go on each of these dynos. It certainly won’t accelerate any faster as it still has exactly 200bhp at the wheels, but the owner would probably smile a lot more and greatly impress his mates at the pub if he uses the one that gives him 270bhp and sends his mate and his identical car to the one that will tell him he has only 220! Why Is The Power At The Wheels The Most Important Power? The power at the wheels themselves is what propels your vehicle forward. When tuning on our dyno, we take a baseline wheel figure over three runs and then tune for more power at the wheels. As long as we get more power at the wheels we know for a fact the car will accelerate better. It’s as simple as that. All we need is repeatability so we can be certain that changes we have made have had the desired effect. Rolling Road Tuning in Lancashire Is There A Ballpark Accurate Figure To Get A Flywheel Estimate? No – There really isn’t – however, we tend to find that a reasonably good set of figures to use is as follows: Front Wheel Drive = Add 15% Rear Wheel Drive = Add 18% Four Wheel Drive = Add 22% Please understand that these figures are just guidelines – To suggest that a 1000bhp at the wheels 4wd vehicle has just lost 220bhp through the transmission is ludicrous – that is enough heat to melt a gearbox casing in seconds! The figures do however normally work out pretty accurate for most types of sub 250 bhp road car.

Covjek je tek ugradio stol... Testira ga... Kada sve bude spremno reci ce cijene... Kuda zurba... EDIT: Evo rekao je u trecem postu

Ma samo sam sarkastican... jer u 90% slucajeva kada netko napravi nesto u Hr ... Ekipa pocne pricati kako je ukrao on ,njegov tata, djed, baba, itd...

Ma ukrao .... :lol:

Neki dan sam u ducanu vidio plavu subaru grtalicu snijega ... hahahaha

Morat cu preko bare impreCiCu slati... hahahaha

Kazem ti probaj Kikija... Foxu je dofurao auto na slepi... ne znam kakav je deal bio... To moras sa njima vidjeti...

ma znam zato sam stavio smajlic, jer i te kod ovlastenog u hr su cisti smijeh... samo gledaju kako da te zavaljaju... sve je super kada ti prodaju auto, kad se vratis nazad da reklamiras nesto onda si im najveci neprijatelj... Ovdje moras imati racune od ulja (mozes sam mjenjati)... I nema onih gluposti ako ugradis drugi radio, da ces izgubiti garanciju na amoritezere ili motor... :lol:

Bas to... Ja ne bi nikada na nevideno kupio rabljeni auto... Osim ako ne daju 6mj garanciju, na koju mozes racunati... :lol: Vidi sa kijijem b - Borso ne znam kako se tocno zove salon... tu je na forumu bio Kiki, nisam siguran dali je jos uvijek... Nekima sa foruma je dovozio aute izvana...

Nakon sto postova... napokon pravo pitanje... Kakve siceve trazis? trkace - skoljke ili cestovne "skoljkaste" siceve?

Bas sam htio napisati da si ti isao na neki tecaj... sjecam se da si na fejsu stavljao slike kaj ste ucili :lol:

Ako se ne varam Hic - TH performance je nabavljao brembo...

kao sto je Lovre rekao... treba ti reduktor... netko tko zna izracunati omjer koji ti treba da dobijes tocno sto zelis... netko tko ti moze zupcanike isprintati na 3d printeru... i kuciste...

Gotovom multimedijom kao sto je Pioneer, Alpina itd... Ne mozes ova kineska sranja nazivati multimedijom...