2fast

Onaj neki sprej od SONAX-a za skidanje insekata, odlično odrađuje posao. Našpricaš, ostaviš par minuta, kasnije našamponiraš auto, opereš, obrišeš i mušica više nema...

Imaš to i od Red Line-a. Našao sam par testova po netu, uglavnom nema nikakvog ili ima vrlo minimalnog efekta.

Do sada toga nije bilo, pa pretpostavljam da nije normalno...

Isprobat ću da li mi radi tempomat, to su mi i moji dečki iz servisa rekli, pa ćemo vidjet za dalje.

A još imam one iste, razmišljao sam da bi u tome mogao biti problem... ali prevruće je, ne da mi se skidat felge po tom suncu... Nisam spajao na dijagnostiku, ne pokazuje nikakve greške. btw: jel to može imat ikakve veze sa laganim zamašnjakom, kvačilom, itd...?

Imam drive-by-wire gas..

Imam jedan "problem" sa šaltanjem, odnosno okretajima motora kod šaltanja. Naime, prilikom šaltanja mi se dogodi da mi okretaji odu za ponekad i cca. 1.000 rpm-a prema gore. Znači ako šaltam na recimo 6.500 rpm-a odlete preko 7.500 itd... Da li je moguće da je problem u šalteru na papučici kvačila (auto ima tempomat pa pretpostavljam da ga ima). Ili je problem u kvačilu / nećem trećem? Naravno, radi se o šaltanju u višu brzinu.

Treba mi za Bailey DV-26D. Za Forge ih i ja imam hrpu doma. Hvala svima na informacijama, budem iskontaktirao te firme da vidim tko mi to može odradit. :thumbsup:

Potrebno mi je po uzorku napraviti oprugu za blow off. Da li znate nekog majstora / obrt koji se time bavi? Našao sam neku firmu u Gorici, sutra ću ih zvrcnut da vidim dal to mogu napravit. Opruga je promjera 25 mm, dužine nekih 60 mm.

Frend iz Austrije koji ima Lotusicu mi pokušava to nabavit... nove se ne mogu naručit nažalost, a i da mogu, mislim da bi cijena bila malo "jača"... I to je opcija...

Zanimljiv tekst: Bonnet Spacers In an attempt to reduce the the Underhood Temperature Readings, I thought that I would try raising the back of the bonnet to let some of the hot air escape. Quite a few cars at the drags employ this little trick so I thought I would try it out and use the Cable Free Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer to see what temperature difference it would actually make. Fabrication - Installation - Results Fabrication Installing bonnets spacers is a pretty simple thing to do. You just need to make up some spacers to fit underneath the hinges for the bonnet and put them in place. I have seem some people simply use a handful of washers, but a full mounting plate spacer distributes the load more evenly. Below are some pictures of the mounting plate spacers that were made. The mounting plate spacers are made out of 10mm aluminum plate cut to size to fit underneath the existing bonnet mounting plates. You will also need some longer mounting bolts. From memory I think the ones I used were M6 by 25mm. You will also need some washers since the stock mounting bolts have the washers physically attached to them. That little round bit of tube in the photos is to raise the existing alarm bonnet sensor. Installation Installation is trivial, but you do need two people. Open the bonnet and hold it up with the normal bonnet holder. Remove the mounting bracket on the side that is not physically held up. Insert the new mounting plate spacer and do up the mounting bolts finger tight. Remove the mounting bracket on the side that is physically help up. Note that someone will need to hold the bonnet up for this. Insert the new mounting plate spacer and do up the mounting bolts finger tight. Close the bonnet and see which way it needs to be moved (if at all) to line it up correctly. Move the bonnet around as necessary (although the stock mounting positions don't really allow very much movement). Tighten both mounting points. With the mounting plate spacers installed there is about a 5-6mm gap between the sealing rubber at the back of the engine bay and the bonnet. This is just enough to allow some of the hot underhood air out of the engine bay. The negative pressure behind the lip of the bonnet should also help suck air out. Note that this assumes the space behind the bonnet is actually under negative pressure. Without a manometer to measure the pressure, this is just an educated guess. Turbulence and eddies from the bonnet lip may mean this is not actually the case... Results Well, the results were really quite interesting. I have a thermometer placed on the tower strut brace as shown in the picture below. I also have some previous readings of the temperature in that location before the bonnet was raised, which can be found on the Underhood Temperature Readings web page. From the results I have now obtained with the rear of the bonnet raised it appears that the modification has actually made things worse, much worse! Previously the underhood temperature reading only ever got as high as ~45°C. Now with the spacers in place it is not unusual to see the underhood temperature breaking into the 60°C range. Also after a long drive the left hand side of the tower strut (looking into the engine bay) gets so hot you would burn yourself if you held onto it. These results seemed counter-intuitive until I popped the hood and thought about it for a few minutes... I suspect that raising the bonnet allows for hot air to not only escape out through the bottom of the engine bay, but also out the top (as was the plan). It would seems that the hot air takes the path of least resistance out the engine bay, and now that the rear of the bonnet is raised, that particular path of resistance is quite small. As the hot air off the headers (actually very hot since they aren't wrapped) passes by the intake manifold and anything else in its path, some of that heat gets absorbed by those components. Those components includes the intake, throttle body and intake manifold. With the bonnet securely shut, the very hot air doesn't get much chance to get anywhere near them. In particular the left hand side of the engine bay gets a lot hotter because there is a nice path for the hot air off the Custom B16A Headers to travel around the side of the block, over the transmission, and out the top. On some days I could actually see the heat haze coming out the left hand side when driving forward very slowing (like in peak hour traffic here in Auckland). So, with my particularly configuration it appears that raising the bonnet does exactly the opposite of what I intended! It actually increased the temperature of the components I wanted to keep cool. So, the mounting place spacers were prmptly removed. For other configurations, perhaps where the headers have been wrapped, raising the bonnet may actually be beneficial though. Unfortunately, not in my case though.

Imaš kakvu fotku kako to kod tebe izgleda? To mi je isto par ljudi preporučilo. Samo ne znam kako to vizualno djeluje? Ima i Z20LET dodatnu električnu pumpu vode, baš za to kad se auto ugasi a treba još hladiti turbinu i rashladnu tekućinu.

To mi je bila prva ideja, ali me lakirer uvjerava da to baš i nije najsretnije rješenje, da će se od visokih temperatura kit "povuć", da će na njegovom mjestu nastat mjehurići... itd... btw: gdje si našao ovu fotku, to su "škrge" sa nekog auta ili su custom made?

Ne pregrijava se, ali u situaciji kada se vučem po gradu, temperatura je stalno oko 90°C što prije nije bila, iz razloga što je sada malo veća gužva u motornom prostoru i zrak je topliji i teže izlazi ispod haube... itd.. Glavni uzrok toga je preslabi ventilator motora koji je trenutno unutra, ali stigao mi je ovaj tjedan iz UK jači Kenlowe ventilator koji ide u motorni prostor umjesto tog preslabog SPAL-a koji sada imam i dva SPAL-a idu na kiler klime. Tako da vjerujem da će to vratiti stvari na staro. Ali svjejedno bih htio vidjeti i opciju ugradnje te električne pumpe vode, ukoliko ona dodatno može pomoći pri hlađenju, odnosno održavanju konstantnije temperature motora.

Ne mislim da nije dobra, nego razmišljam o tome kako poboljštati hlađenje, (u ovom slučaju kroz povećanja protoka rashladne tekućine, itd...) Moraš se složiti da ima smisla ovaj dio da ukoliko auto radi na leru (750 rpma-a) vodena pumpa ne daje isti protok kao na 5.000 rpm-a. Svakako da nećeš ništa puno postići ako vodu na recimo 90° tjeraš velikom brzinom kroz sistem, dobit ćeš mali pad temperature, samo što će voda vrlo brzo cirkulirati. Ali ima mi smisla da ujednačavanjem protoka u situaciji stajanja u prometu ili vožnje na otvorenoj cesti poboljšavaš hlađenje prilikom ove situacije kada auto stoji u prometu... itd... Zato i pitam da li je netko imao iskustava sa time, teorija se može dosta razlikovati od prakse, pa ne želim ići u to ukolio je učinak nikakav ili minimalan.

Nisam baš siguran... Protok rashladne tekućine u sistemu ne ovisi o broju okretaja motora... u leru i na visokim okretajima onda se vrti neosivno o motoru. Preko kontrolera reguliraš željenu temperaturu, ovisno o kojoj on regulira protok... itd...

2 CroDriver: čije pumpe koristite? Davies Craig radi striktno pumpe za aute, ima model sa većim / manjim protokom, ovisno o veličini i snazi motora, odnosno potrebnom protoku.

Razmišljam o tome da standardnu mehaničku pumpu vode zamijenim sa električnom. Koliko vidim Davies Craig radi te pumpe zajedno sa kontrolerima. Zanima me da li je netko već imao iskustava sa instalacijom takvih pumpu, da li je bolje potpuno izbaciti mehaničku OEM pumpu ili ugraditi ovu električnu kao dodatnu pumpu? Da li je poboljšanje hlađenja osjetno, itd...?

Da li netko ima kontakt e-mail adresu od RSR-a iz Ljubljane na koju odgovaraju? Poslao sam upit na info@rsrmotorsport.com pred dobra 2 tjedna ako ne i više, ali nitko ni slova. Jedino ako ne kuže hrvatski...

fire, mislim da se niste skužili, kako bi plinovi bili hladniji ako izoliraš kučište da što manje topline odlazi u okolinu? Plinovi iz tog razloga ostaju topliji jer se manje energije / topline rasipa u okolinu. Znači plinovi su topli(ji) a motorni prostor je hladniji.

U kučištu turbine... drži ga toplijim... održava energiju ispušnih plinova i time održava / povećava njihovu brzinu...

Logika kaže da ne bi trebalo biti toplije pod haubom jer ovo zadržava toplinu u turbini, znači manje topline isijava van...

Mislim da DEI ili Thermo Tec nema za te novce... bar koliko sam ja gledao... EDIT: vidim da si napisao da je to Viper performance...

Ja ovih dana razmišljam to nabavit. Gdje si ih našao kod nas? Postalo mi je jako vruće pod haubom...

Nek kupi fino od mene Z20LET 2.0 turbo i to će onda bit to...